Ten years ago, I arrived in Nanjing for the first time, and I may have fallen in love with the city the moment I landed. This weekend serves as a vacation for myself, who hasn't gone out in a long time, and also as a fulfillment of a "ten-year promise."
Since I bought the tickets at the last minute, I couldn't visit the Nanjing Museum (it turns out you need to make a reservation a week in advance). I heard that artifacts that could be considered "treasures" in other museums are piled up here like extra bowls in a kitchen, so I can only hope to experience the "grandeur" of the Nanjing Museum next time.
Southern Dynasty Poets and Guests, Still See the Qinhuai's Green#
Nanjing, the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties (though they were all short-lived regimes), has long been said to be a place of dragon veins and royal energy. Later, the King of Chu or someone buried gold to suppress this royal aura, hence the name Jinling. I have been educated in materialism and have always scoffed at feudal superstitions, but when I arrived in Nanjing, I felt an uplifting "energy."
I began to become superstitious.
I came to Nanjing in the autumn ten years ago. At that time, the French sycamores were telling their own history, and a few fallen leaves floated on the Qinhuai River, announcing the arrival of autumn. Strolling through the streets and alleys of Nanjing, I felt the historical sediment and cultural richness of this ancient capital.
In my weekly journal from last August, I found a photo of the Qinhuai River taken with my Lumia. It was 8 AM, and due to the renovation of Wuyi Alley, there was no one by the river.
I was poor back then (still am), and the trendsetters of this era had already started playing "city walk" ten years ago. 1912, Vanguard Bookstore, Xuanwu Lake, Yihe Road, the ancient city wall... all free attractions. I stayed in a guesthouse near the Qinhuai River and was taken to the police station for identity verification because I forgot my ID... Every morning, I would go to a regular noodle shop near the guesthouse for breakfast and was surprised to find "water-boiled pork slices" noodles there, which I ordered out of curiosity. That whole bowl of water-boiled pork slices truly stunned me; it was only 18 yuan, and it felt like déjà vu...
Memories from ten years ago are starting to blur...
Still see the Qinhuai's green upon returning.
Finally, I had the chance to return to Nanjing.
I Visit Old Friends at This Gate, Faces and Lanterns Reflecting Red#
Ten years ago, I took the train to the train station, and upon exiting, I was at Xuanwu Lake, which felt close to anywhere from there, so I chose a hotel near the Qinhuai River. Now, the high-speed train arrives at Nanjing South, and as I've gotten older, I don't want to carry my bag around, so I booked a hotel next to the train station, which is quite expensive.
After a four-and-a-half-hour high-speed train ride, I arrived in Nanjing in the afternoon. After dropping off my luggage at the hotel and adjusting my mood and state, I went out.
I went straight to Laomendong, a place I hadn't visited before. As the name suggests, Laomendong is just east of the old gate. In fact, I always think of this place as the old east gate, and I always hear it as the old east gate.
I took a total of five rides in Nanjing, and I felt that the drivers here share a common trait: "elegance." It's not about their driving style, but rather the "elegant" aura they exude while driving. Personally, I find Nanjing's traffic quite chaotic; even the water trucks can run red lights, and there are all sorts of cutting in line, changing lanes over double yellow lines, and getting out of the car in the middle of the road... Perhaps to avoid traffic accidents, the countdown on traffic lights is larger than people (some say it's because there are many trees that can block the view, so they made it as big as possible)... Maybe the drivers have seen so much that even if they curse inside, they wouldn't say it out loud; if it were drivers from Changsha, they would have rolled down the window and yelled...
A city is like a person; its appearance mainly comes from the gifts of nature, while its cultural temperament is mostly accumulated over time.
The Misty Air of the Six Dynasties, Blue Bricks and Dark Tiles Reflecting Autumn Traces#
Upon getting off the car, I felt the bustling crowd, noisy and lively. This kind of noise is a sign of prosperity, as if one is in the splendor of a flourishing era. Although it's called "Laomendong," to be honest, this street isn't old enough; it can even be said to be too new (perhaps the west side is older). It can be compared to Chengdu's "Kuanzhai Alley," with at least 80% similarity, and has about 15% similarity to Taiping Street.
Laomendong has a delicate classical feel, with many cultural and creative shops, but when I first arrived, I was hungry. All I could think about was food.
As soon as I got off the car, I saw plum blossom cake. I had seen it the day before at a night market in Changsha, and when I approached, I didn't think of eating it then, but this time I looked at it and still didn't think of eating it. However, it looked quite nice.
There were many young ladies in Hanfu on the street. I don't know if there is a strong Hanfu trend in Nanjing or if it's because of the recent lantern festival.
In "Monster Hunter Rise," the bunny dumplings are a delicious food that hunters must eat before heading out, which can enhance their stamina and endurance limits during a quest.
Enjoy the gentle sweetness of the sugar-filled daifuku! Eating it can relax the body and mind, and various states will be enhanced!
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Stamina +10, Endurance +10, Dumpling Companion Guidance"
Consumption: ￥15
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
Of course, this is just an appetizer. I have long forgotten where that noodle shop from ten years ago is, but before coming here, I saw that Nanjing people love to eat rice noodles, and "water-boiled pork rice noodles" are the signature dishes of several old shops. Surprisingly, the dish I randomly ordered ten years ago was a signature specialty, quite gourmet-like.
I found an old shop (actually the one across from the dumpling shop that serves crossing-the-bridge rice noodles) to slurp some noodles. Although it's an old shop, you still order by scanning a code. The portions are large, but not as big as the roadside portions from ten years ago. The texture is very tender, the broth is flavorful, and the rice noodles are chewy, with corn and radish inside, making for a rich taste. After eating, I felt warm and tingly all over.
If Changsha's stinky tofu is famous because of Chairman Mao, Nanjing's stinky tofu isn't as well-known; it can only ride on the coattails of the stinky tofu from Lu Xun's writing. This stinky tofu is about the same size as Changsha's, but the texture is quite different. This stinky tofu has a salty and fragrant taste when eaten without dipping sauce. The outer skin is not as crispy as Hunan-style stinky tofu, while the inside presents a smooth, fresh, and delicate texture.
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Stamina +50, Endurance +50, Cat's Exploration Good Weather"
Consumption: ￥49
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
After finishing the main course, I strolled around. I had already seen an interesting taro mud dessert on Xiaohongshu, so I decided to get a dessert after the meal.
The chairs in this shop are uncomfortable; sitting feels almost like sitting on the ground. I ordered this taro soy milk egg tart, a dessert that blends traditional and modern flavors. At first glance, I didn't even know what it was. The first bite is a fusion of taro and soy milk, with the natural sweetness of taro perfectly blending with the rich soy milk, creating a unique texture. I initially thought it was just taro and soy milk, but when I took a second bite, it turned out to be a smooth egg tart! The crispy tart shell, smooth egg filling (whatever that should be called?), and delicate taro swirl in my mouth, with distinct layers that meld together upon entry. It's a very magical texture.
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Calories +100000"
Consumption: ￥13
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
Next, it was time to shop and take photos; I couldn't eat anymore.
Last time I came to Nanjing, I visited Vanguard Bookstore, which is also a well-known bookstore, but looking at the map, it was far from me. Fortunately, Laomendong has a branch.
When life is filled with hardships, one might
Look up to the sky and say: Is this how I want to be?
But people, poetically
Dwell on this land
Souls, strangers on the earth.
I had heard of this shop's fame last time I came, but I heard it was expensive and not tasty, and I pictured the Fire Palace in my mind. However, someone kept promising to treat me, and it has been a ten-year promise.
The Qinhuai River Flows Gently for Ten Miles, Song Girls Rowing Under the Crescent Moon#
After wandering around Laomendong for half an afternoon, I was getting tired, and it was time to change locations. Laomendong is not far from Confucius Temple, which is quite convenient; after visiting one, you can walk a few steps to the next attraction.
This time by the Qinhuai River, the tourists were abundant, much livelier than last time (who would be there at 8 AM last time), with a strong commercial atmosphere, making it not much different from other ancient streets. Ten years later, the scenery here hasn't changed much; Wuyi Alley has been renovated, but it seems there are still not many people visiting.
After buying tickets, I heard that Nanjing recently has a lantern festival, and this year it is said to be particularly beautiful. The plan for the evening was to see the lanterns. An additional spontaneous decision was to rent a Hanfu for photos after seeing many young ladies in Hanfu, and I left my camera in the hotel, so today's photos were all taken with my phone.
Lanterns and Buddha Fire Spread Across the Sky, Like Scattered Jade Light#
The Lantern Festival is actually the lantern festival of the Lantern Festival, and before the New Year has even passed, I already celebrated the Lantern Festival. Growing up in the countryside, I had never been to a lantern festival, and it was my first time seeing the intricate and diverse lanterns and the city filled with fire trees and silver flowers. Xin Qiji said, "The east wind releases flowers on a thousand trees at night, blowing down stars like rain." The lights are dazzling, and the experience transcends time; of course, they might set off fireworks, and fireworks fall like star rain, while we can only set off some cyber fireworks.
Lantern shadows flicker on water waves, hearts like water call for the cold and clear.
The faint, cool night breeze with a hint of moisture gently caresses my face. The wind carries the tranquility of the night and the freshness of the water, as if telling the stories of the night. A dreamlike world where light and shadow, movement and stillness intertwine. It is both serene and vibrant, both profound and heartwarming. In this world, we can temporarily forget the troubles of the mundane and immerse ourselves in this unique beauty. At this moment, the water surface is like a mirror, reflecting everything around. The lights, stars, and those silent buildings all leave their reflections here. They sway gently in the water, as if dancing a beautiful dance, enchanting and mesmerizing.
Of course, this snow is a filter. The outfit has a rabbit design, but the headpiece is fox ears? I always see myself as a little rabbit, but in reality, others see me as a little fox.
In the colorful interplay of light and shadow, the mysterious and ethereal koi, like a dream, leap like a rainbow, gently circling above the gorgeous attire, resembling a flowing painting. The entire scene is filled with a tranquil and mysterious atmosphere, as if time stands still at this moment.
These twinkling stars are quite large and form a vast area of twinkling lights, super beautiful. It feels like walking in the starry sky, each step stepping on starlight, each breath inhaling moonlight, with my heart dancing with the wind, my body in the clouds, transcending the romance of reality. My thoughts drift with the night, with only the starlight and my heart, flickering and dancing for this scene.
I'll end the Lantern Festival here; anyway, the lantern festival is beautiful and splendid. As for the proposal, let's leave that aside; the two of us were awkwardly dying, and I don't want to recall the details; I doubt anyone online wants to hear it either. In fact, from a meaningful perspective, it's quite romantic; ten years ago, we had our first date in Nanjing, and the idea of proposing in Nanjing was planted then. The ten-year promise has arrived, and proposing under this starlight is quite romantic.
I played until late that day before returning to the hotel, my heavy body fell asleep...
It felt like I had a dream, dreaming of ten years ago...
East Garden with Wine, West Garden with Drunkenness, Picking All the Loquats from a Tree of Gold#
The next day, I got up early and headed straight to Hongshan Zoo, which I had heard many locals recommend. Since I couldn't go to the museum, I decided to go here. I originally got up early to see the koalas being weighed, but I still arrived late; the koalas had already been weighed and started sleeping.
The little koala is so cute. After leaving the koala exhibit, I found a food court; no one cared about the food, everyone was busy buying cultural and creative merchandise.
Speaking of which, the ticket price for Hongshan Zoo is super low, ￥40, even cheaper than the lantern festival yesterday. Not to mention seeing so many cute animals, I even saw three pandas (in contrast to the giant panda breeding base). However, the animals are well-fed; unlike the little pandas at Beijing Zoo that have to perform tricks for food, the ones at Hongshan Zoo are well taken care of. I think they can sustain the zoo just by selling cultural and creative merchandise.
When I went to the red panda exhibit, two gibbons next door were "arguing," and their sounds were particularly amusing.
There was a crocodile at the entrance of the amphibian exhibit. I didn't want to go in at first, but it turned out to be like an aquarium inside. However, there were indeed many scary amphibians, like snakes; the crocodile, on the other hand, was just lying there like a fake one. As for this catfish, it looks quite silly.
Some catfish have integrated into civilized society; seemingly dull, they are actually quite talkative.
It maintained this posture for at least a minute; maybe it's the knight of the sun.
"Praise the Sun!"
A perfect shot taken with manual focus, standing on tiptoes.
The capybara, scientifically known as Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris, is the largest living rodent in the world. It has a stable temperament and often shares its habitat harmoniously with other animals. It is indeed large, about the size of a wild boar.
{{< detail "NSFW_The Scandalous Photos of Top Internet Celebrities Leaked_Open with Caution in Public" >}}
Anyway, it's quite speechless; upon seeing you... in front of so many people... well, the scene went quiet.
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I still don't understand why Dudu is the top star of Hongshan Zoo. Although the merchandise around is quite cute, seeing the real thing gives a sense of disappointment.
After wandering around, I was quite tired, and since I got up early, I hadn't eaten much, so I went to a café to drink this hot cocoa to replenish some energy.
While taking photos of the pandas, my camera was almost out of battery. There was a panda sitting in front of me eating bamboo, no more than 2 meters away, and I could even smell the fragrance of the bamboo, which made me hungry (it was already past noon, and I was a bit hungry).
After watching the pandas, I was tired, and my camera ran out of battery. I quickly walked through to see the tigers and bears, and I was already exhausted. I planned to conclude my visit to Hongshan Zoo, but before leaving, I went to check on the koalas again. At this time, the little koalas started to move; the active dumplings were so cute.
It looks like a villain from some animation, but I can't remember which one.
Blue Stone Streets and Alleys Welcoming Guests from All Directions, Dark Tiles and Flying Eaves Differ from Shops#
Since it was still early, but I was already exhausted (and hungry), I planned to wander around Laomendong again to find something to eat (and take a portion of taro mud dessert home). Since I was already very tired, I didn't take many photos.
I randomly wandered out of Laomendong and saw a very lively old shop. This shop uses firewood for cooking, and in the cold winter, the aroma of firewood wafts through the air, a scent that seems to dispel the cold and bring peace to the heart.
The aroma of firewood is actually a complex scent. It consists of many components, with the main one being the smoke produced by burning wood. Additionally, the aroma of firewood is mixed with other scents, such as the fragrance of wood and herbal freshness.
This scent is not just a sensory enjoyment but also a spiritual solace. Encountering such a shop amidst the bustling Laomendong, I decided to give it a try.
The red bean tangyuan looks quite ordinary, with small tangyuan floating in rich broth, resembling pearls (forgive my poor imagination). Served steaming hot, I pretended to blow on it a couple of times, with steam swirling around. The cooked tangyuan has a semi-transparent texture, chewy and smooth; the red beans, after being simmered, become fragrant and sweet, melting in the mouth with a gentle bite. One bite combines the sweetness of red beans with the soft and glutinous tangyuan, as if performing a sweet dance in the mouth.
Next comes the main event, "Big Meat Noodles."
Big meat noodles, a dish that sounds simple. Those who know me well know that I usually don't like this kind of noodles; I usually prefer rice noodles. However, when that steaming bowl of big meat noodles was placed in front of me, a fragrant aroma immediately filled the air, stimulating my sense of smell and making my mouth water.
The noodles, as the main component of big meat noodles, carry the foundational taste of this dish. The texture of the noodles is chewy and smooth, cooked just right—not overly soft and still retaining a bit of elasticity. When it enters the mouth, the noodles dance on the tongue, smooth and with a good bite, enhanced by the special broth, adding a layer of deliciousness that makes the flavor of the noodles rich and unforgettable.
The big meat in the big meat noodles is the highlight. After long hours of stewing, the meat is tender, with a bright red color and a mix of fat and lean. One bite combines the richness of the meat with the delicious broth, bursting in the mouth instantly. At the same time, the fragrant meat aroma resonates with the wheat aroma of the noodles, making it irresistible.
I drank all the broth and exclaimed in delight!
Out of respect for the chef, I peeked into the kitchen from outside.
Under the bright lights of the kitchen, this elderly man in a red-gray apron is clearly the creator of the big meat noodles. The traces of time on his face seem to tell the history of this old shop, with a calm demeanor and kind eyes; his ordinary actions reveal an indescribable elegance and strength.
I greeted him and shyly ran away.
Floating Fragrance Carries Deep Affection, Jade Rabbit and Smoke and Haze Craftsmanship#
I don't know how to conclude; returning to daily life gives a sense of dislocation, as if these two days were a dream.
In fact, if we set aside personal sentiments, looking at Nanjing from a city perspective, it is not much different from other cities. To me, it resembles the cities described in "Invisible Cities," where the close connection between the city and human life shows that every city is quite similar yet completely different.
Nanjing is complex, diverse, uplifting, pluralistic, inclusive, elegant, and vibrant.